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Backyard on a budget

 Frozen ShrimpYou went nuts with barbecues last year. Bluefin tuna steaks. NewYork strips and rib-eyes. Boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Lambburgers. Baby-back ribs. But that was another summer, a stretch of warm days without$4-a-gallon gas and skyrocketing food prices. This summer, the year of the "staycation," you will remain attachedto your grill. But the stuff you slide onto the hot grate will bedifferent. And you will be thankful for this rude push out of halibut land.The economy handed you lemons, and you'll make . . . marinade. We love the classic cheap approach to the barbecue — throwbrats and burgers on the grill and serve 'em up. But we likevariety, too. So, change it up this summer: Learn how to cook new cuts of meat.Have fun with chicken wings. Buy frozen shrimp and grill them onskewers. Cook whole fish. Master the marinade, the potion of spices and liquids into whichyou never dunked your pricey T-bone or your sashimi-grade salmon. Get familiar with local markets focused on Latin American and Asianfoods. With the weekly sales at major supermarkets, the Costco andSam's Club deals, and the offerings at these ethnic markets, you'llpull off enviable backyard feasts without threatening the finances. Let's begin with the beef. This summer, go for cuts of sirloin, andcuts of top round: Tri-tip. Flap meat. Hanger steak. Skirt steak. Most of these cuts have more muscle than expensive cuts of beef andas a result usually need tenderizing. Marinades, which combineacids and fats (like lime juice and olive oil), help break down thecollagen in the meat. The process also allows more moisture andflavor into the meat. You're not gunning for the essence of beef asmuch as a hint of steak mixed with bright flavors, like thesavory-sweetness of teriyaki. The key is to cook the meat to medium-rare or even rare (thesetougher cuts of meat become rubbery at medium or well-done) andslice it thinly against the grain. Thinking chicken? Think chicken wings, much cheaper than breasts.Imagine them Vietnamese-style, plump little boomerangs ofgolden-crisp poultry, pungent with soy sauce, fish sauce, garlic,ginger and lemon, and perfumed with star anise. You get the picture. Take the wings, marinate them in whateverflavors you desire, toss them on the grill for 12 or 15 minutes,and you're done. 

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